At time of writing, I’m in Kovalam in Kerala in South India. It has been 11 years since I was last here. That’s a very long time! Partly because I discovered Africa and spent some time going there when I could, and partly because Covid put a significant damper on my travel plans. But nevermind the length of time, I’m back now. And it feels wonderful.
I flew in from Colombo, Sri Lanka on a beautiful, clear morning and I was sitting on the left side of the plane with a window seat. This turned out to be one of my better life choices. As we flew north over the southern tip of India, I was able to look out the window at the coast below. And, from the air, I saw the Vizhinjam port – it is huge. And much closer than I realised was Kovalam, the two beaches (Hawa and Lighthouse), the actual lighthouse, the hotels hugging the coast. We followed the highway north. And from the air I could see that it has been upgraded since I was here last. I was pretty sure I recognised Poonthura beach and the pier at Valiuthara too.
And then after landing we drove to Kovalam. I recognised Thirivulum junction (though I couldn’t remember the name of it), but it was where I got off the bus to go to Poonthura. The junction has changed a lot with the highway upgrade, but was still recognisable. The same old white buses running up and down the highway, and the same air conditioned orange tourist bus from Kovalam beach to Trivandrum.
Kovalam Junction looks much the same as does the road from there down to Kovalam beachfront. The beaches themselves and lots of the restaurants and hotels along the front are the same. Some have had a lick of paint (Coconut Grove) or significant upgrade (Sunset hotel). Others look a little sadder and sorrier (some of the businesses down the side and back alleyways).
And while I was walking down one of the little alleyways with tailors in the shop fronts saying good morning and me replying as often as I could, I stopped. There was a tailor who I remembered and who remembered me (though he is in a different shop from before). He made a shirt for me about 12 years ago. So we had a quick chat before I continued on my way. I think some of the waiters at The German Bakery were here when I first came. The German Bakery is basically the same – same menu, same French breakfast (coffee, pastry, cigarette), same vegetable cocktail, same tofu and vegetables. The Lonely Planet vegetarian restaurant is still as nice as it was. And the fishermen hauling in their nets in the morning or heading out to the fishing waters (or back from them) are the same too.
It’s quite nice to feel so comfortable and for things to be so familiar even after a long time. I have no doubt that I’ll enjoy my time here in India. I just need to make sure I come back within the next decade rather than leaving it so long again.
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